New Greenleaf a haven for Toledo’s vegetarians

Blade (Toledo, OH)

May 16--Robert Harris was tired of traveling to Ann Arbor or Detroit when he wanted to go out to eat. A vegetarian since 2012 who is "transitioning to vegan," he said, the choices in Toledo were just too limited.

"I was praying and praying someone would open a vegetarian place," he said.

But when no one else took the initiative, the longtime insurance broker who is also an herbalist did it himself: The Greenleaf Café, Toledo's only strictly vegetarian and vegan restaurant, opened April 22 at 4933 Dorr St.

Mr. Harris' partner, Ulandra Nash, a naturopath and herbalist, has created a menu with the goal to "get people away from greasy, fried foods" and "make food people already eat" and enjoy, she said, just in more healthful versions. She is training the restaurant's kitchen staff.

Having given up eating meat in 2008, Ms. Nash developed many of the Greenleaf's offerings for her own needs initially.

"Now I'm a vegetarian -- what am I going to eat?" she had asked herself. She has taken those creations and added a few family recipes, creating a mix of overtly healthful dishes and familiar comfort foods that have had nutrients secretly tucked into them.

You'll find stalwarts such as a vegetable stir-fry on a bed of rice, a veggie wrap (peppers, spinach, onion, tomato, and cucumber rolled into a flat bread), and the Greenleaf Special Salad loaded with kale, lettuce, tomato, cucumber, egg, strawberries, cranberries, and pecans that can be served with a vegan dressing of tahini mixed with lemon juice.

The Philly Cheese Steak and the steak and barbecue chicken wraps are made with meat substitutes, as is the Veggie Burger: a patty melt served on whole-grain bread. And the hearty Baked Cheesy Spaghetti is enriched with seasoned grains and oats that offer the texture of meat but, of course, without the taboo item.

And don't forget dessert. Vegetarians and vegans can still have a sweet tooth.

Cakes have been especially popular with customers. The butter pecan and strawberry ones have dairy, and they are the only items on the menu that contain refined sugar.

Erik Johnson of the Ivy Entrepreneur Institute, who helped with the café's business plan, enthusiastically called the caramel-frosted vegan cake "fantastic" and "fabulous." Mr. Johnson said that he is not a vegan "but I'm working my way toward it. [Mr. Harris] made me a believer," especially after he realized that he could still enjoy many of his favorite foods, just more healthful versions of them.

"We don't want to be a reason you go to the doctor," Mr. Harris said. "We want people to be healthy and live longer."

Quality is important to both Mr. Harris and Ms. Nash, who shop locally, use ingredients that have been certified kosher, and serve items that have nutrition built into them (such as whole-grain pasta rather than a variety made with refined white flour). Many meat substitutes contain egg whites, which are not vegan. "It took some digging" to find appropriate ones to satisfy all of their customers, Ms. Nash said, but that was an important thing to pursue.

The Greenleaf Café offers live entertainment from 6 to 8 p.m. every Friday. Several members of the wait staff are talented performers, and "I'm going to be so happy to showcase them," Mr. Harris said.

Summer Conley, a singer-songwriter who has performed for former President Barack Obama, said it'll be fun to sing her own compositions for customers.

Jabin McManamay, who said he plays many instruments, is also excited for the performance nights.

Neither is a vegan or vegetarian, but both enthusiastically endorse the food at the Greenleaf Café.

Mr. McManamay recommends the spaghetti, while Ms. Conley's favorite is the chili.

The Greenleaf is also hosting open mic poetry readings from 6 to 9 p.m. Mondays.

"This is my first Texas two-step," Mr. Harris said of his new venture. He has tried to make the Greenleaf Café inviting, with "upbeat" music, bright lighting, and seating that isn't crowded, along with friendly service and a varied menu.

"If you're raw, vegan, vegetarian, or a meat eater," Mr. Harris said, "you'll find something good to eat."

Greenleaf Café, 4933 Dorr St., 419-720-4445 is open 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday, noon to 7 p.m. Sunday.

Contact Mary Bilyeu at [email protected] or 419-724-6155 or on Twitter @BladeFoodPage.

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