State foods finding that ‘special’ niche [Connecticut Post, Bridgeport]

Feb. 28--How special a food is, of course, is always a matter of taste.

But the American palate in the 21st Century is increasingly diverse, and the foods that people find appealing are more unconventional, adventurous and, sometimes, just a little different.

Take the winning offerings of some area companies at the recent CT Specialty Food Awards, for example.

There was trail mix from a Stratford-based natural and organic food company, a Moraccan rub for lamb from a Weston-based business, a Japanese-inspired salad dressing from a Monroe company and three-grain breads from a bread-baking business in Wilton.

The overall winner was the buttered almond cream from the Purple Pear by Tina, a business in Willington, a rural town in the northeastern part of the state.

Other awards were handed out across a wide range of specialty foods, including fine chocolates, pesto, pickles, tea and coffee, breads and snack foods.

"There are some wonderful products in Connecticut," said Tricia Levesque, director of the Connecticut Specialty Food Association, which sponsored the recent awards event. "It is amazing to see them all in one place."

Aurora Products, on Long Beach Boulevard in Stratford, took home first and third place in the outstanding snack food category for its Wizard's Mix and Spicy Pub Mix. Established 12 years ago, the natural and organic food business has grown exponentially and its products -- natural fruits and nuts, trail mixes, granola and the like -- are now available in stores around the nation.

Owner Stephanie Blackwell was pleased that Aurora's products won two awards -- Wizard's Mix, a trail mix with candy, and the Spicy Pub Mix.

"They happen to be the two that I like the most, and they are special items," Blackwell said. "It is a nice feeling."

Besides award-winning specialty foods, Aurora takes a special approach to hiring, with policies that reflect social awareness. Many of its workers live in inner-city Bridgeport, and were hired based on credentials of "determination and dedication" rather than a "garish resume." The business also employs about a dozen workers with disabilities from the Kennedy Center, and two of the company's employees live in homes built by Habitat for Humanity, the home-building charity that the business has supported for several years.

El Smith, owner of El's Kitchen, a Weston-based dry rub company, said the award to one of her products should help the family-run business continue to grow. Smith's Moroccan Lamb Spice Rub finished second in the category of outstanding herb, seasoning or spice blend. The rubs are available at retail stores around Fairfield County, including Whole Foods in Westport.

"It's incredible to be recognized," said Smith, who started her company in 1998 after working in the finance field. "It's a difficult marketplace and that kind of recognition convinces stores to carry our products and makes consumers want to try it."

El's Kitchen was started with recipes that Smith used to feed her four children. The rubs can be used for grilling or in chili or stews.

Stark Naked Dressings, a Monroe-based business established last summer, was awarded second place in the category of outstanding oil, vinegar or salad dressing for its Japanese Ginger Dressing.

"It is very exciting, we entered the competition to gain recognition," said owner Gary Stark, who runs the business with his family. "We are planning on bringing the product to supermarkets and other retailers; it gives us a credibility other than just those who try it and love it."

Stark previously worked in New York City, but decided to leave his job and annoying boss to bottle his own salad dressing recipe after encouragement from friends who loved it. He started selling the products at local farmer's markets this summer with his two children, Griffin, 8, and Rebecca, 6.

The product was inspired by Stark's love for dressings at Japanese restaurants and hibachis. It is available through his Web site, starknakeddressings.com.

"It's really a family affair," said Stark. "It is good experience for them, to see what it's like to be an entrepreneur." The company donates 10 percent of its proceeds to local charities and Stark's son Griffin helped his father organize a fundraiser for Haiti earthquake victims, with all proceeds of dressing sales going to the relief effort.

Another area business, Wave Hill Breads in Wilton, finished in second and third in the category of outstanding bread for its Three Grain Pain du Campagne and Three Grain Petit EPI.

The breads made by the 4-year-old company are available around Fairfield County at restaurants and stores such as Balducci's in Westport and The Pantry in Fairfield, as well as at local farmer's markets.

The company has one kind of bread dough and shapes it in different ways. Since it is a small bakery with one recipe, eggs, nuts or milk are not used in the breads so people with allergies can enjoy the product without worry, according to owner Margaret Sapir.

"There should be a whole appreciation of local foods, especially breads," said Sapir, who runs the company with her husband Mitchell Rapoport. "Breads don't travel well and it is delightful to eat bread made the same day."

The CSFA, based in Farmington, has expanded as natural, locally grown foods have become more popular, according to Levesque, the organization's director.

"Purchasing products from Connecticut companies also fuels our local economy and helps create jobs here in our state, which is more important now than ever before," she said. "It really is a win-win for everyone -- consumers get the best quality foods available and Connecticut companies stay strong."

The winners, honored Feb. 18 at the Aqua Turf in Plantsville, were chosen by 30 judges, including state media personalities, food writers and chefs. Entries were scored on taste, originality, variety and flavor, and then selected by the judges based on blind taste tests.

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