The Hartford Courant, Conn., Java column [The Hartford Courant, Conn.]

Aug. 25--New York City's James Beard Foundation offers a variety of events to educate, inspire, entertain and foster an appreciation of American cuisine. Among those events are its prestigious dinners at the James Beard House, featuring some of the most celebrated chefs from around the world.

Today, Hartford's own Noel Jones, executive chef extraordinaire at the Polytechnic On20 restaurant, will orchestrate one of the tony dinners.

"Executive chef Noel Jones oversees the edgy contemporary American offerings, which include exceptional, elaborate tasting menus that have inspired devotion among diners and critics," is how the foundation described Jones in its release on the $170-a-person dinner to be served tonight.

While Spilling the Beans with Java, Jones shared his plans on leaving a distinguished culinary mark on diners that the late Chef Beard, dean of American cookery, would applaud.

QUESTION: So what's the big deal about James Beard and cooking at the James Beard House?

ANSWER: He was the dean of American cooking, an impressive, extravagant man. Everyone wanted to be around him. He was a foodie, passionate about it and the man chefs wanted to know in person. To be asked to cook at one of the dinners at his house by the foundation is the highest honor. Especially because there have not been a lot of chefs from Connecticut ever invited to cook.

Q: How did you get chosen?

A: Customers who have to come to my dining room at On20 and are members of the foundation recommended me. And there was The New York Times write-up about us and I think the foundation took note of that. I received a call from the Beard house about six months ago and had no idea I was being considered. They have been fun to deal with, very professional, not snobby at all. They handle chefs very well.

Q: What will your menu include?

A: I am using a lot of Connecticut products. Hors d'oeurves will include Stonington fluke sashimi, Starlight Farms tomato salad, Flamig Farms eggs with truffles and beet juice, and Rose's Berry Farm blueberries for a blueberry tasting dessert that will include a blueberry ice cream sandwich, a white chocolate macaroon with blueberry filling and blueberry shortcake. I will also be serving Prince Edward Island mussels, quail eggs in a potato, Colorado lamb loin, duck crackers and foie mousse.

Q: How many are you cooking for?

A: About 80. It is close to capacity and we do have a good entourage coming from Connecticut. It is nice to know I have a lot of people I work with that are coming in to experience the dinner. And no, I am not picking up the tab.

Q: Is this a dream come true for a celebrity chef such as yourself?

A: I have dreamed of a lot of things. The success at the restaurant has been quite astounding. It might sound cliche but I am not someone who cooks to see my name in the paper. The nicest part of being invited to cook by the James Beard house is that people are talking about our restaurant in a positive way.

Q: Are you getting any help with this dinner of the decade?

A: My good friend Billy Grant, who has also cooked for a foundation dinner at the Beard House, is coming down to help me.

Q: Do you consider this a golden opportunity to showcase your culinary expertise?

A: Of course it's a chance to show off. But my biggest concern is not the James Beard House or how the foundation views the dinner, but that the people that come to eat are happy.

To see more of The Hartford Courant, or to subscribe to the newspaper, go to http://www.courant.com/.

Copyright (c) 2010, The Hartford Courant, Conn.

Distributed by McClatchy-Tribune Information Services.

For more information about the content services offered by McClatchy-Tribune Information Services (MCT), visit www.mctinfoservices.com, e-mail [email protected], or call 866-280-5210 (outside the United States, call +1 312-222-4544)