El Gallo Pinto [Silver City Sun-News, N.M.]

Aug. 26--SILVER CITY -- El Gallo Pinto, at the corner of Hudson and College Street, doesn't look like a new business.

On Friday afternoon, just days after its doors opened last Tuesday, the seats inside were filled and there was a line wrapping around the building for the drive-thru. El Gallo Pinto didn't advertise its opening. It doesn't even have a sign -- just a banner that reads "OPEN, not kidding" and "Mexican Food" printed on the windows. Owner Simon Ortiz credits all of the surprising early success to the kitchen staff and the food they prepare.

"You have to realize, this is the restaurant business -- if you don't cook something correctly, people won't come

back," he said. "We have been open four days and we already have repeat customers. There are even a few WNMU students who have been here every day." This is Ortiz's first try at managing a restaurant, but he has owned the building -- next door to his Allstate Insurance business -- since before Don Fidencio's left the location a couple of years ago. Since the opening, Ortiz has been very hands on in his approach to El Gallo Pinto. He greets customers, runs to get ice when the kitchen staff runs out, and at night, he even washes dishes.

What he may lack in direct experience, though, Ortiz makes up for in vision.

"I wanted to bring something unique to Silver City," he said. "And I for

one have always loved good grilled chicken."

With that in mind, Ortiz designed El Gallo Pinto with an open grill right behind the front counter where people in line can see it sizzling. As of Friday, the grill was still cold. That's because Ortiz wants to get the recipe perfect before he introduces it.

Next to the grill is the other standout piece of machinery -- a spit. Again, it sits unused right now until he gets the recipe right, but Ortiz's plan is to roast meat on it in the tradition of a Greek gyro or a Turkish kebab, but with a Mexican twist.

Until then, El Gallo Pinto is serving up Mexican classics like burritos, tacos, tostadas, carnitas and particularly spicy chile -- as exhibited by several of the patrons on Friday whistling and waving their hands to cool their mouths off. The menu already has several fans.

"This is already the third plate I've had here," Shaun Chacon said, back for more. "They've all been great. The carne asado taco is really good."

"The amount of business we've had already is a direct reflection of the kitchen staff and their skill," Ortiz said.

He said that David and Jesus Alvarado in particular have done an excellent job running the show in the kitchen. They designed most of the menu.

"I didn't expect this much business this early," he said. "I thought we had enough, but we might even need to hire more staff."

El Gallo Pinto is located at 901 N. Hudson St. The drive through is open starting at 6 a.m. The restaurant opens for sit-down dining from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Friday. Weekend hours are from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Saturday and 8 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Sunday.

Benjamin Fisher may be reached at 575-538-5893 ext. 5803.

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